Guanajuato Junction

So, here I am flat on my ass in Guanajuato...

I heard of a really neat city that was only a few hours bus ride from San Miguel. Decided to check it out and stay for a few day or two. It is called Guanajuato. The name means place of frogs. It was originally built over the Guanajuato river which flowed through tunnels underneath the city. Later a dam was built and the water was redirected. The tunnels were lit and paved with cobblestone and today are used as an underground road network to navigate the city.

This is also where Miguel Hidalgo, the leader of the Mexican Independence movement, was caught and executed. Old Miguelito as well as three other revolutionary leaders had their heads hung with care from the corners of what is now a state museum. This was a warning to the residents of Guanajuato. I didn't really stress over it...

The teeming metropolis of Guanajuato is a charming colonial style city. Set in beautiful surroundings in midst of ravines and gullies. Its streets flow into steep twisting alleys. It was one of the richest cities in all of Mexico - once. The Valenciana silver mine once produced an astonishing 1/5 of the world's silver - and not the kind sold by streets vendors to the unwary tourist that turns black in an hour.

The innerestin hillsides are a spectacle for the eye. Loaded in hundreds of brightly candy colored colored houses. The city has a slogan of The Old City with a Young Heart. There is one of the oldest universities in Mexico located here. It has over 8000 students. It also boasts one of the largest places in Mexico for mathematical research. As with these teeming masses of squirrelly students - especially the guys, guess I had better mind my P's and Q's.

Hit a spot of confusion entering the city from a peaceful bus ride from San Miguel.
Not really having much of an idea where to get off the local bus from the central station as it seemed none of the roads were named, the passengers and I were driven through one of the quirky and numerous subterranean passages that Guanajuato is famed for. After witnessing most of the passengers disembark, thought it best to jump off at the next stop. Fortunately, the exit was near some crumbling flagstone stairs returning to the surface world and actually, not too far from the hotel I had chosen.

First things first: in my mindless wanderings in Guanajuato, I found a spot up a hill that certainly came close to the most perfect place for a cerveza Sol I’ve ever seen. You have to go up this touristy thing called the funicular - and the way was packed with flabby, petulant tourists, but a short walk away from where the big statue and viewing platforms and stuff are, there’s a little place called the Cafeteria Encantado, with 180 view of the whole town, run by a cute old couple who also sell really random souvenirs (you get the feeling some of it was just scrap and knick-knacks that were lying around their house). The sun was warm, the beers were cold, the snacks were salty - I sat and drank with indefatigable voracity.

Guanajuato was really interesting. Despite my earlier derogatory musings about museums, I realize now the exception for me is the presence of actual dead bodies. El Museo de Momias, in fact, is nothing but dead bodies. The story goes that a while ago they excavated some of the bodies in the cemetery in Guanajuato to make room for more (?!), and they discovered that something with the combination of soil type, mineral and pressure here had preserved the corpses. So they built a museum in which to exhibit the bodies to the public, I mean, wouldn't you?. I love this country! You pay your 25 pesos, and just walk in and see hundreds of dead bodies. Up to your arm pits in shriveled brown corpses - more than you can shake a stick at if one felt inclined.

However, even this morbid sicko Yours Truly was a little perturbed by tourists laughing and taking photos of dead baby mummies. Also, they’re still putting bodies in there, but only when families can’t afford the ongoing costs of a plot in the cemetery. Can you imagine something like that ever, ever being allowed in States? Whatever your ethical objections to the whole concept (Like I would care), it was really fascinating stuff. Step right up, folks and bring little Timmy and Suzy! The grotesque facial expressions! The still-intact boots! The pregnant mummy! Nothing like viewing 300 dead bodies to remind you of your own mortality, though, and the best argument for cremation I can think of.
This town was also the birthplace of Diego Rivera, the Mexican artist who had the tempestuous relationship with that diva about town, Frida Kahlo. Shrugged off my reluctance to be indoors, and went to his family home, which is now a museum (sadly lacking in actual corpses), and an art gallery of his work.
Saw my first Mexican Emo here too, ha haa. I don’t even want to know what kind of quantity of product it took to tame that Latino mane into a dead straight asymmetrical fringe, but I’m sure whatever it was it was worth it to him. Emo isn’t just another fashion fad, it’s a serious lifestyle choice, okay? And though a little frail for my tastes - he was quite a looker.
Stayed in a hostel conveniently located near the entertainment precinct, however when choosing it I didn’t really think through the implications, given the Mexican propensity for late nights and louder than shit ranchero music. I bet you didn’t know that every Latin pop song has EXACTLY the same beat, learnt this through the muffled throbbing coming through the pillows I was squeezing my head between till 4am. Eventually drifted to sleep to the gentle lullaby of 100 drunk Mexicans having a shout-along to Man, I Feel Like a Woman.

Woke up this morning with the feeling I’d been gargling shards of glass all night, and with throat glands practically the size of tennis balls. Oh no, my outrageous good fortune runs out! Going to take it eeasssy today, with a long bus ride to Guadalajara, five hours south-west. To be honest I’m getting a bit antsy to hit some laid-back coastal fishing towns, but we’ll see how it goes. Guadalajara is only an hour from the actual town of Tequila - too dangerous...

The downtown center is a great place to wander on foot. Vehicles are prohibited, so it makes for a nice atmosphere. The main Jardin ( a park in the center) is the place to hang out. There are lots of trees for shade, and pretty gardens to sit and relax in. Mariachi bands are in abundance, especially at night. There are lots of cafes with outside seating around the park.

Sitting in a outside cafe table, I stuck up a conversation with a student named Mario - he was funny and kind. I explained to Mario what i was doing and where I was headed - he, like so many others haha - decided to be my unofficial guide and show me some of the Guanajuato night life.

The first place we hit was a bar called La Botellita - This restaurant/cantina is colorfully eclectic, with the bar area looking something like a Mexican wrestling ring. The decor is eye-catching and gives off a casual, yet elegant feel. It's located next to the Jardin Union, an easy walk from anywhere in the downtown area. If you're looking for a great eating experience with a little people-watching included, this is the place for you. Mario and I sat and swapped stories. Unfortunately he was helplessly heterosexual - so, I didn't drop the fag bomb on him.

So, on that note - a little drunk we staggered over cobblestone streets to Capitolio Disco - Capitolio is one of the best clubs you will find in Guanajuato, its tradition and music makes it a firm favorite with the locals. Music here is as varied as the clientele, however predominately playing techno, dance and house. I drank so many Long Island Ice Teas - I even...okay, you ready for this? I even danced with this girl! It was a friend of Mario's and we boogied all together for a few songs.

2am rolled around and after the three of us munched on some tacos - three as Gaby, Mario's friend, came with us - we said our goodnights and I blearily staggered back to the hostel...