A vast expanse of dusty, crumbling structures made up of red
brick and adobe sprawled out into a smog-choked horizon. Many seemed to still
be standing from the early 1900’s, deteriorating slowly under a brutal, desert
sun.
Ciudad Juárez definitely was not a tourist attraction. Few
curio shops catered to the international visitor. Juárez Avenue was the main
drag which began at the international bridge of the Rio Grande and stretched
sixteen blocks south, lined on both sides with a few discos, small cantinas,
and fly infested restaurants. To the constant tune of a mambo beat, taxi
drivers sat inert in the intense sun, shop owners languidly read newspapers,
and mangy dogs zigzagged between pedestrians who clogged the cobblestone
sidewalks.
I made my way south on Juárez Avenue to the towering
Guadalupe Cathedral, a pile of ancient stone which dated back several
centuries. From what I gathered, Juárez sprang up around the cathedral like growing
fungus and spread outward.
Turning on Avenida 16th de Septiembre, I approached the
fortress of worship down a dusty sidewalk. As I crossed towards a crowded plaza
in front of the church, my senses were on alert.
Encompassing a large, concrete square - Plaza las Armas, it
was called - sat a multitude of people on long, stone benches under
sporadically placed trees doing nothing but socializing as they had for
countless years.
It was near mid-afternoon and the sun beat down in
shimmering heat upon the concrete thoroughfare. A legion of shoeshine boys
fluttered through the masses as vendors sold flavored ice and sunglasses. Two
young men did a clown act at the base of the cathedral stairs to an applauding
and laughing audience. The stalls were an arabesque of multihues selling all
types of candy colored curious. The air wafted with smells of spoiled garbage,
automobile exhaust, and seared taco meat. Local families strolled with their
giggling children, bewildered tourists gawked, and in cooling shadows a band
tootled and twanged music indigenous to Sinaloa. I stood for a moment and appreciated
this idyllic scenario of Mexican life which took place against a backdrop of
the cathedral’s mammoth, twin-spires topped by neon crosses.
Interwoven among this picturesque scenery was the
clandestine hum of rentboy activity and the old farts in Stetsons who loved
them, squatting in the roasting shade, shivering with lust. I knew this type of
place all too well.
As on cue, I was swarmed over by guides strictly on the
hustle:
“Taxi, Meester?”
“Pussy women? Titty girl?"
“Massage?”
A group of stern and rugged campesinos peered down at me
from a rustic, graffiti splattered gazebo in the middle of the plaza with far
away eyes filled with curiosity for the wandering foreigner.
Covered in grungy clothes, the gaggle of stoic men waited
silently and patiently for the sun to set and make the run across the border.
At the base of the gazebo, lonely queens idly sat and lingered for the chance
to snag one of those studs as countless, cheap hotels lay nearby.
I stood there taking it all in when a young man hobbled on
crutches up to me. As he approached, he wore a forced smile upon his face.
He introduced himself and said his name was Edgar. He was a
young man with shaggy, brown hair. His face was handsome yet held a visage of
some unknown and long suffering. He was dressed nicer than the other beggars,
so I assumed he wasn’t. The crutches were fairly new and gave me the idea his
malady was recent.
“Hello there, Edgar.” I grinned, attempting to be cordial.
“What happened, man? What’s with the crutches?”
His face grimaced in pain and mumbled something about having
a hard time standing. After purchasing us both a soda, I invited him over to a
vacant spot on the concrete benches.
Again, I lightheartedly inquired what was wrong with his
legs. He stared at the passing multitude, took a sip of his drink for dramatic
effect, and began his tale of woe.
With a determined look deep into my eyes he said, “I was
walking home from work two days ago - you know, out by Parque Independencia.
A squad car pulled up and two officers began harassing me. They had me sit on
the curb as they began going through my backpack. I had nothing in there but my
uniform, right? They asked for my ID - which I had. It was current - but, this one
pendejo accused it as being fake.” He took another sip of his soda. “They
started all kinds of shit that I looked like some runner for the cartel they
had been looking for and right in front of me cut my ID up with a knife. Then,
they threw me into the back of the squad car.”
“Damn. What happened next?” I asked.
His eyes became misty, “They drove me out to the middle of
nowhere, man. Still cuffed, they dragged me out behind this building and had me
take my shoes off. I was sitting in the dirt when they took their batons and
began beating my feet.”
He lifted one pant leg and his skin was mottled with large
purple and blue bruises. His tan skin ashy from scratch marks.
I scowled. “Goddam!”
Edgar rolled his pants back down and continued, “They threw
me in the back of the car again and drove me out to my neighborhood and dumped
me about six blocks from my house.
With the utmost contempt peppered with fear, Edgar eyed two
police patrols meandering through the Plaza - one a hulking, apish looking man
and the other a stone faced, dumpy woman. At that moment I could not help
feeling Edgar’s emotions. I loathed them, too.
“Wow…that’s tough.” I mumbled. I mean, what could I say?
“That’s not all of it.” He spat, wiping his mouth with a
napkin. “As I was walking home - the best I could - another patrol car cruises
up and they started their shit. I explained what happened, right? They laughed,
accused me of not having an ID after I had told them what happened - threw me
in the back of the car and drove me around awhile - all along not saying a
word. Once at a substation, they put me in a cell and beat my legs as other
prisoners silently looked on. It was horrible!”
As tears began to trickle down his brown cheeks, I asked,
“Then what did they do?”
“They let me go.” He stated flatly. “They drove me a block
to my place and let me go.”
Edgar sat there for a moment, silently reminiscing the
terrible ordeal. He gulped another mouthful of coke, “The next day, I told my
neighbor and she gave me these crutches. I took a taxi over to the police
station on 8th and tried to explain what happened. The receptionist just said
it was my word against the cops. And they would believe the cops - since I had
no ID. After that, I went to the Human Rights building and tried to explain it
to them - but, I got the same response. Man, I tell you, amigo - you gringos
have no idea how fucked up it is for us here.”
Indeed.
He stuttered out the words, “I was hoping…since I’d lost my
job because of this, if you could help me with any pesos? I haven’t got
anything and,” He jerked his chin down to his legs, “I don’t think I’ll be
working anytime soon.”
I stood up and took out my wallet. Removing two twenty
dollar bills, I placed them into Edgar’s hands.
Edgar’s eyes misted up again, “Gracias, amigo. Mucho
gracias.”
He excused himself to return to his apartment and use the
money to pay rent. As I watched Edgar hobble away, it was my first taste of the
dire circumstances in which the cartels and the local police were suffering onto
the people of this city.
The sun ultimately boiled away into night and I walked out
of the plaza. As twilight fell, the downtown area burst into a carnival
atmosphere. All types of crazy hipsters assembled wearing woolen, Peruvian ski
caps and hip-hop paraphernalia and pacheco haircuts in every doorway and on
every corner.
I strolled down Avenida 16th de Septiembre and passed tiny,
sweltering carts where they prepared churros and cut them for me from sizzling
grease baskets. I crunched voraciously from a bag I purchased as I planned to
cover the Mexican night ahead on the cracked and trash strewn sidewalk.
Wandering aimlessly, I rambled down the crazy hooker
infested street of Calle Mariscal and pushed and dodged through the phantom
night of activity.
Mariachis stood on lamp lit corners or in front of
closet-sized cantinas and blew beautifully into shiny trumpets. Taxis crawled
along pot-holed pavement, sweaty American perverts from El Paso aimed for their
Dark Prey as children huddled hungry in the shadows with wary eyes.
Transvestite prostitutes minced through the night with their coiling fingers of
Come On as young, heterosexual Aztec men passed. The youthful drunks stumbled
with flashing smiles and gave the trannies the once over.
Ranchero Music drummed from a thousand neon-splashed
cantinas. Down mysterious side streets, antique and crippled buses built in the
1950’s waddled in mud holes, flashes of fiery-yellow transvestite whoredress in
the dark, in shadowed alcoves assembled pimps and pushers of flesh and junk who
leaned against walls of naked mortar. Pretty boys passed, every age. I turned
to watch them, far too beautiful, my God - they smiled back a smile that was a
siren which could sink any ship, cabron.
Macho men dressed in flashy vaquero gear or grimy rags
with huge, floppy straw hats entered and exited smokey bars occupied with
howling people, drinking Indio from tall water glasses, coolly smoking mota in
crumbling alcoves, shamelessly pissing into open sewage ditches along dark alleys.
Whores by the hundreds lined along the adobe walls of Orizaba Street and in
front of their dank, sweet scented cells of disease, beckoning coyly as I
passed.
A scrawny prostitute with long, straight raven hair
approaches and flashed me a smile of silver-capped teeth.
“Oye, baby, want to fuck?” She beams.
I look down and noticed she was several months pregnant.
“Oh, mami, it looks like someone beat me to it.” I smiled as I passed her.
She laughed heartily and calls at me, caressing her stomach
with petite, brown hands, “For you, one price for two, papi.”
Arm in arm, packs of young Mexican men recklessly strolled
down the main whorestreet of Mariscal, black hair hung limply over their eyes - borracho – as long legged women of calling in tight yellow-blue-red dresses
grabbed at them and cocked their pelvises in, pulling at their shirts and
pleading. The boys drunkenly wobbled and smiled shyly away as blank-faced cops
patrolled the thoroughfare on little bicycles, rolling invisibly over broken
sidewalks.
I eventually stopped on a corner under a flickering marquee
and lit a cigarette, soaking all this wonderful madness in. With an optimistic
grin, I realized with certainty that Juárez would make a mighty fine home for a
while.