Hi All!Greetings from Quetzaltenango, Guatemala!
I had a fantastic time in San Cristobal de las Casas, Mexico. The town was beautiful and the temperature was refreshingly cool in the mountains. Went on a day excursion to Sumidero Canyon for a fantastic boat ride. In addition to the beautiful scenery, I managed to spot some crocodiles on the banks and spider monkeys in the trees. I was a little shocked by the amount of litter that was in the canyon by damn feelthy tourists, but the place was still very scenic.
After San Cristobal, took a 3 hour bus ride to the Guatemalan border. Guatemala is a very scenically beautiful country, but the cities and towns are quite dusty and dirty. Guatemala is a very poor country, but there is still a lot of life and happiness to see in the locals. Many of the men dress like we would in the States, but the women wear bright multicolored clothing and linens that they drape themselves with - wonderful explosion of color.
After crossing the border, boarded a chicken bus, which are old buses from the USA that were donated to Guatemala for public transportation. The buses are painted ridiculous colors and decorates with all sorts of stickers and religious slogans. Our bus from the border had portraits of Jesus painted on the front and had a bleeding heart and Garfield motif. The chicken bus is not a comfortable mode of transportation - but it was still a great experience. Chicken buses provide a great opportunity to see how regular Guatemalans travel and you get to mingle quite a lot. This is mostly because they cram up to 4 people in a seat! My luggage rode on the roof. There is a drivers assistant that collects the fares from the passengers and also takes care of the luggage. This means that on a windy mountain pass before a stop in a town, the assistant will crawl out of one of the bus windows, climb up on top of the roof, untie the baggage, chuck it down to the people getting off, and climb in through the back door of the bus! This was often done while the bus was in full motion! Sadly, we did not have any chickens on our bus, but one that passed us had two huge baskets of turkey chicken strapped to the roof. They did not look too happy to be there. After our 5 and a half hour ride was done, stopped in Quetzaltenango for the night. This is a pretty large city but nothing much seemed to be happening. This was only our stopover on our was south to the Lake District.
Met two guys on holiday from Monterey, Mexico on their way to Tikal. We struck up a conversation at a food stop - Alex and Juan. Two cool guys and they speak English! I explained my wayward travel and they thought it was downright ridiculous - yeah, I said, I get that a lot in life. We decided to take this last leg together to Tikal.
I must be honest that I was very nervous to be venturing into Guatemala, but I have been pleasantly surprised. Hopefully the rest of Guatemala will prove to be the same experience!
The end of Mexico with my new super amigos was almost upon us. We had returned to the bus station in Tonalá to catch our last bus, which of course by now could only be Gran Lujo, to Tapachula right next to the border between Guatemala and Mexico.
We arrived around 6 in the evening and what was becoming a regular theme to a heavy downpour what we were starting to learn that there is a good reason why it is called the wet season, but its not rain as I know it, dribbles that last for days with grey skies, no this was a tropical downpour, almost like a bucket being throw over you that lasted for maybe an hour but the heat... well that just stayed the same.
So like usual Alex, Juan, and I got a taxi to take us to hotel that we had found in the every useful guide and we headed off into the soaking city.
Taxi drivers are the best, no matter where you go there are always two types, grumpy bastards or talkaholics where nothing is taboo and their opinion is what counts - period. So when the taxi driver of our cab who looked like a Mexican version of Ravon from Phoenix Nights asked where we were from and then proceeded to tell us that in Spain 90% of the people are swingers there was nothing anyone could do but agree because its was his cab and his word goes. Arriving at the hotel getting out of the cab "El Ravon" clearly looking at the gringo and made a comment to Alex letting him know that he "was up for it" then his boyfriend (me) was not to bad either... it was one of those tumble weed moment that no one really knew how to take but it was shaken off with a nervous laugh as scurried into the sanctuary of the hotel. Tapachula has more of a central American major city vibe than that of Chiapas of where it is located, dirty busy streets with a bustling street vibe of ever inquisitive people asking you what your business is and earn a few tourist dollars, random drunks and a sleazy underworld that would not be too hard to find if you scratched the surface.
That is not too say it is all bad but like Tijuana it was a border town that was reflected through the businesses and restaurants and although it had recently seen a 70 million dollar investment to try and take advantage of its location and inevitable passageway into central American this place was still waiting to break away from the pack.
After dumping our bags amongst the funky 70´s decor of the amazingly large room with views (a bit like the views in Bladerunner to be honest) we braced ourselves and ventured out into the night. The clientele was interesting to say the least. I think after 5 minutes I had seen a lady, boy and a child of around about 10 absolutely trolled on the booze... but still there was never any real sense of danger.
The only thing that cut our little tour short was the sudden down pour that if you don’t recognize the first warning signs then you will be literally soaked, luckily we were in the main plaza and with a large covered terrace right next to us so we just dived in there. It was the last supper and there was no messing around with the food, it was be spicy and to be washed down with Mexican beers a plenty. With stories shared and plans made for the second leg we sat there well into the night only having to move inside later on as the rain forced several leaks to come through the roof and on to our table. When we finally chanced the weather to run back to the hotel it felt weird that we would not be tackling another Mexican chapter with Alex and Juan the day after but with the news that the both of them are thinking about setting up home in Mexico city, well it almost certain that the return leg will start there.
We found a rakish little dive bar with good tunes on the rockola. We closed the place down! Drunk, tired, happy - we returned to our ratty room. It must’ve been the cheap beer, because those two decided it was in the best interest of diplomacy to take liberties with my person. The three of us had sex until dawn, crawling bleary eyed to a local café to wash our hangovers down with some juevos ranchero and delicious coffee…
After San Cristobal, took a 3 hour bus ride to the Guatemalan border. Guatemala is a very scenically beautiful country, but the cities and towns are quite dusty and dirty. Guatemala is a very poor country, but there is still a lot of life and happiness to see in the locals. Many of the men dress like we would in the States, but the women wear bright multicolored clothing and linens that they drape themselves with - wonderful explosion of color.
After crossing the border, boarded a chicken bus, which are old buses from the USA that were donated to Guatemala for public transportation. The buses are painted ridiculous colors and decorates with all sorts of stickers and religious slogans. Our bus from the border had portraits of Jesus painted on the front and had a bleeding heart and Garfield motif. The chicken bus is not a comfortable mode of transportation - but it was still a great experience. Chicken buses provide a great opportunity to see how regular Guatemalans travel and you get to mingle quite a lot. This is mostly because they cram up to 4 people in a seat! My luggage rode on the roof. There is a drivers assistant that collects the fares from the passengers and also takes care of the luggage. This means that on a windy mountain pass before a stop in a town, the assistant will crawl out of one of the bus windows, climb up on top of the roof, untie the baggage, chuck it down to the people getting off, and climb in through the back door of the bus! This was often done while the bus was in full motion! Sadly, we did not have any chickens on our bus, but one that passed us had two huge baskets of turkey chicken strapped to the roof. They did not look too happy to be there. After our 5 and a half hour ride was done, stopped in Quetzaltenango for the night. This is a pretty large city but nothing much seemed to be happening. This was only our stopover on our was south to the Lake District.
Met two guys on holiday from Monterey, Mexico on their way to Tikal. We struck up a conversation at a food stop - Alex and Juan. Two cool guys and they speak English! I explained my wayward travel and they thought it was downright ridiculous - yeah, I said, I get that a lot in life. We decided to take this last leg together to Tikal.
I must be honest that I was very nervous to be venturing into Guatemala, but I have been pleasantly surprised. Hopefully the rest of Guatemala will prove to be the same experience!
The end of Mexico with my new super amigos was almost upon us. We had returned to the bus station in Tonalá to catch our last bus, which of course by now could only be Gran Lujo, to Tapachula right next to the border between Guatemala and Mexico.
We arrived around 6 in the evening and what was becoming a regular theme to a heavy downpour what we were starting to learn that there is a good reason why it is called the wet season, but its not rain as I know it, dribbles that last for days with grey skies, no this was a tropical downpour, almost like a bucket being throw over you that lasted for maybe an hour but the heat... well that just stayed the same.
So like usual Alex, Juan, and I got a taxi to take us to hotel that we had found in the every useful guide and we headed off into the soaking city.
Taxi drivers are the best, no matter where you go there are always two types, grumpy bastards or talkaholics where nothing is taboo and their opinion is what counts - period. So when the taxi driver of our cab who looked like a Mexican version of Ravon from Phoenix Nights asked where we were from and then proceeded to tell us that in Spain 90% of the people are swingers there was nothing anyone could do but agree because its was his cab and his word goes. Arriving at the hotel getting out of the cab "El Ravon" clearly looking at the gringo and made a comment to Alex letting him know that he "was up for it" then his boyfriend (me) was not to bad either... it was one of those tumble weed moment that no one really knew how to take but it was shaken off with a nervous laugh as scurried into the sanctuary of the hotel. Tapachula has more of a central American major city vibe than that of Chiapas of where it is located, dirty busy streets with a bustling street vibe of ever inquisitive people asking you what your business is and earn a few tourist dollars, random drunks and a sleazy underworld that would not be too hard to find if you scratched the surface.
That is not too say it is all bad but like Tijuana it was a border town that was reflected through the businesses and restaurants and although it had recently seen a 70 million dollar investment to try and take advantage of its location and inevitable passageway into central American this place was still waiting to break away from the pack.
After dumping our bags amongst the funky 70´s decor of the amazingly large room with views (a bit like the views in Bladerunner to be honest) we braced ourselves and ventured out into the night. The clientele was interesting to say the least. I think after 5 minutes I had seen a lady, boy and a child of around about 10 absolutely trolled on the booze... but still there was never any real sense of danger.
The only thing that cut our little tour short was the sudden down pour that if you don’t recognize the first warning signs then you will be literally soaked, luckily we were in the main plaza and with a large covered terrace right next to us so we just dived in there. It was the last supper and there was no messing around with the food, it was be spicy and to be washed down with Mexican beers a plenty. With stories shared and plans made for the second leg we sat there well into the night only having to move inside later on as the rain forced several leaks to come through the roof and on to our table. When we finally chanced the weather to run back to the hotel it felt weird that we would not be tackling another Mexican chapter with Alex and Juan the day after but with the news that the both of them are thinking about setting up home in Mexico city, well it almost certain that the return leg will start there.
We found a rakish little dive bar with good tunes on the rockola. We closed the place down! Drunk, tired, happy - we returned to our ratty room. It must’ve been the cheap beer, because those two decided it was in the best interest of diplomacy to take liberties with my person. The three of us had sex until dawn, crawling bleary eyed to a local café to wash our hangovers down with some juevos ranchero and delicious coffee…
2 comments:
Hey this is nice. A little more light-hearted than some of your other south of the border jaunts, which I also enjoy. I didn’t realize until the last post, unless I’m mistaken, that you don’t speak fluid Spanish. There’s hope for me. I’ve been wanting to see Guadalajara ever since I read somewhere that it tied with Nairobi for the world’s best climate. Elevated tropics - that’s what it is. I’m getting the impression though that all Mexican men, in a pinch, are up for non-heterosexual good times. Not the ubermacho, I’d-rather-kill-than-touch-a-dick, ethos I’ve always heard about. The “tumbleweed moment” with El Ravon was funny.
Enjoying the scenery, Luis, and the occasional snapshot, and your take on the local color and customs and caballeros.
Hahaha - indeed! Thank you for the comment. Yes, in my limited experience with Mexican Nationals, especially the men, I must admit it is a very closeted and rigid don't-ask-don't-tell sexual culture in way of homosexual activity.
Firstly: Anyone other than Latino (non-American)that denies this is a liar. As long as you keep it cool, non-obvious and don't write blogs about it, no harm is done - they see it as just a way of passing time and/or getting off. Thier 'love' and 'emotions' are saved for the fairer sex.
Secondly: I am suprised people are still reading my blog...hmmmm...disturbing.
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